SoZo HAIR Salon Tips
When hair color needs correction, it’s best to have a professional help! Things can happen that may create a need for correction such as improper color selection, timing, application and even environmental effects. The key is knowing how to address the issues.
When broken down, there are really only 4 things that can be wrong with hair color; It’s too light, too dark, too warm, or too cool. Light and dark are depth related, warm and cool are tone related. Often, more than one of these issues are coming into play in different areas of the hair.
As always, there are multiple ways of doing anything, some are just better than others. To cover the “general” and “simplified” theory of addressing the main issues;
When Hair Color Is Too Light
When color is too light, depth is added. The tricky part is that when hair is very light, it is often porous, this can make the darker color go very drab. When porosity of the hair is an issue, “fillers” are used. Fillers are applied prior to the desired color and help by adding subtle undertones (usually warm) that keep the color from going drab. Fillers also help the color hold longer instead of fading right back out of the hair.
When Hair Color Is Too Dark
When color is too dark, it has to be faded/removed. The important part here is that a lighter hair color won’t remove artificial hair color that is darker. It has to be done with remover or lightener. Then, depending on where the color is left, it has to be adjusted.
When Hair Color Is Too Warm
When hair color is too warm, it needs to be counteracted with cool tones or “toned” down. This is usually one of the easier fixes. In some cases, the color needs to be lightened further to get past the warm tones. When hair color is lightened, it creates warmth, it goes through 7 stages of lightening which are red to red gold to yellow. If it isn’t taken far enough and red or gold is not desired it needs to be lightened more and/or counteracted. Some people have more warm undertones than others and it takes more time to get through those in this situation. In many cases, it just takes “time” and proper color selection to create a beautiful color with the desired tone.
When Hair Color Is Too Cool
Last, but not least, when color is too cool, ashen tones need to be faded/removed. They cannot be counteracted. Depending on the depth of the cool tone, it may be a quick, gentle fading process or a more in depth removal may be required in darker levels. Once the ashen tones are broken up, warmer adjustments may or may not be needed. If warm tones need to be added, that is considered a toner as well, new terminology may also call it an “overlay.”
Application technique is important in correction and the product being used should only be applied exactly where it’s needed for each specific problem. It’s also important to watch closely for proper timing. Experienced hair designers are very good at fixing hair color problems but in certain cases, it may take more than one visit to get everything back in order. As the old saying goes, they are beauticians, not magicians. With hair color being such an “accessory” these days, we like to change it often. This has created more hair color correction than used to be but it has also made hair designers better at addressing correction issues.
Here’s to HaPpY HaIr DaYs!
SoZo Salon Tips is a blog about beauty salon tips, tricks and hints. SoZo HAIR by Bajon Salon & Spa serves the greater Cincinnati area. We are located in Olde West Chester at the corner of Cincinnati-Dayton and West Chester Rds. We’re just a short drive from Mason Oh and Fairfield Oh….a big city hair salon without the big drive and big traffic.
Karen Welch has 30 years of experience in the Hair Fashion Industry and is considered an expert in hair design and hair color.
SoZo HAIR by Bajon Salon & Spa is located at 9069 Cincinnati-Dayton Rd, Olde West Chester, OH 45069. Call 513- 874-9999 for your appointment.